When should I worry about tuning point?

Q:Does that mean that at my distance of 64 ft, the first tune point where the transmitter light is the brightest, and the receiver light is dim is a scalar field, but weak? And that the second tune point where the transmitter light is very dim but very bright on the receiver, is a better tune to use, even though the first point was 5.4 and the second was 4.5?

Does that also mean, at this distance, there is no need to worry about an EMF tune in the 4s because the boxes are too far away and the emf tune would be much lower if it showed up at all?

And are you saying the hand test would be moot at this second tune point of 4.5 (with the strongest light at the receiver) – that it wouldn’t matter what happened during a hand test, even if the receiver light went out?

A:Always best to confirm each tuning point in its entirety.

It really helps to have seen how the predictable tune points are responding when you do it at 6 feet apart.

Once you can tell the difference between a known EMF tuning and the scalar tuning at 6 feet apart, it helps you when at distance.

In any case, with your two tune points, you want to take the one that achieves the most power at the receiver.

That link cable light is a good indicator of how much power if flowing between the two boxes, and a weak light indicates a weak field even if it happens to have a scalar component to it.

Since environment plays a large role in tuning characteristics; and I have not conducted enough tests in various environments, I can not say with 100% what anyone will find in their environment.

I can only give guidelines on how one can test it without using an oscilloscope. However, each person’s perspective on what dimming is will be different, and thus why one should learn how their boxes behave under the known 6-foot distance.

Again it is important to understand that scalar energy can not be blocked.

So if your hand is blocking the energy from the transmitter and it is EMF, you will see a significant drop in power if not outright loss of the light because your hand will be absorbing the RF transmission before it hits the receiver antenna.

If it is a really well-tuned scalar setup, you won’t see any change as your hand will not block the scalar energy.

It also should not dim or brighten if well-tuned as the amount of power being generated is greater than what the light requires to hit maximum brightness — what I always aim for.

If it is slightly out of tune, you may notice a slight dimming or brightening, depending on how your body changes the capacitance of the system. This usually is only the case if you touch the lids, but again if not well tuned then there will be room for the system to respond more even when hovering.

In the end, achieve the best tune you can that has the least amount of change when you test it.

Q:If not touching the box, I have observed that the distance one’s hand is from the box matters. If I have my hand 6 inches from the box, the receiver light may dim, but if my hand is a foot away, it won’t dim.How far should one hover their hand from the box to make the hand test valid? Or would that distance be a function of how far the boxes are from one another?

A:I hover about 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch off the lid and move it around to try and cover the antenna which is in the lid.
By hovering slightly, you are not coupling your body to the box directly which will change the box’s field dynamics significantly.

For more details, please check this link:

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